How to Set up an Aquarium With Live Plants

Setting up an Aquarium

Buy a tank that will house your pets and choose a place to keep it. Check the tank size requirements for your aquatic animal before you buy an aquarium, then choose a suitable place in the home to set it down away from direct sunlight. You can buy aquariums and indeed all of your aquatic pet supplies at just about every major pet store or local exotic pet store. Remember that you will fill it with water, substrate, and live plants, so don't keep it on a rickety or unbalanced surface. 1 US gal (3.8 L) of water weighs about 8 lb (3.6 kg), so a 10 US gal (38 L) tank with gravel and decor will weigh significantly more than an empty tank.

Set up a specialty light bulb above the cage to help the plants thrive. LED lights and fluorescent lights are the best options to use as they emit little heat and provide light for the plants to convert into energy. Set up a lightbulb so it lights the aquarium without directly beaming light into your animals' eyes — if it's too bright for you to look at, it is too bright for your pet, so use a low setting. Avoid using incandescent light bulbs as they do not penetrate the water effectively and will not give any nutrients to your live plants. You should keep the light on for about 10 to 12 hours each day at the max.

Pick a filter that is made for the size of your tank and the plants you will add. Aquariums under 50 gallons (190 L) will be just fine with a small filter unit attached to the back of the tank, but heavier aquariums will need a stronger filter. The substrate you will add later on will help to filter the water somewhat, but the water filter unit keeps the water clean and helps your plants to thrive. Opt for a heavy-duty filter, such as a canister filter, if you are worried about your plants dying. While a small filter will suffice for a light aquarium, a filter built for heavier tanks will clean the water more efficiently and you won't have to change it out as much.

Set up a water heater, if your fish and aquatic animals require warm water. Some animals will do perfectly well in non-heated water, while others need the water to be warm and inviting. Look up what conditions are optimal for your fish or aquatic animal, and buy a heater that will keep it maintained at that temperature.

Laying Substrate in the Tank

Clean and lay sand 3 cm (1.2 in) thick on the tank's bottom. Run the sand under water in a pillowcase or ultra-fine mesh container until the water comes out clean. Pour the sand gently into the bottom of the aquarium so it creates a medium-thick layer at the bottom. The sand will filter water, provide nutrients to plants, and create a place for bottom feeding animals to dig and bury themselves. Avoid using gravel, as it contains no nutrients needed for live plants. Gravel is a common choice for aquariums that don't have live plants as it is easy to clean and easy to handle. However, for live plants, gravel provides no nutrition and colored gravel can actually make the water more acidic. If you must use gravel, opt for fine gravel over chunks of gravel, as you can mix it with sand or another substrate to provide some level of nutrition. This is not advised if you plan on having more than a few plants in the aquarium.

Pour a 3 cm (1.2 in) layer of plant substrate over the sand carefully. There are a variety of substrates available at all pet and aquarium stores, and it doesn't really matter which brand you choose as long as it contains no gravel. Look for products that are clay-based to mix with the sand and look for products that are advertised as being live-plant-friendly. Clay-based substrate will make it easier to anchor and root your plants, while other substrates may provide additional nutrition. Look for substrates that contain plant fertilizer, or mix the substrate with plant fertilizer before you add any plants to the aquarium.

Cover the substrate layer with a plastic sheet or an easily removable cover. The sheet should cover the majority of the substrate layer as you fill the aquarium so you don't disturb it. Use a long piece of plastic wrap, a plastic tub cover, or a pot lid for spherical aquariums.

Fill the tank with room temperature water slowly and carefully. The water should be anywhere from 70–80 °F (21–27 °C) to create the right conditions for most underwater vegetation. Slowly and carefully fill the tank with water, being sure to avoid disturbing the substrate layer too much. Your plastic cover or lid will help spread out the impact from having water poured over the base layer. Check the temperature requirements for both your aquatic animal and your live plants. 70–80 °F (21–27 °C) is recommended for most fauna and fish, but if your plants require it to be higher or lower, use whichever temperature is recommended.

Choosing Plants for Your Aquarium

Find plants that are compatible with your aquatic pets. Generally, mosses and grasses are compatible with all aquatic pets, but you should check the care sheet or information guide that came with your pet to see which plants should be avoided and which ones they prefer. For example, in a seawater enclosure, clownfish love anemone. In freshwater enclosures, you should avoid planting leafy plants if you have goldfish or snails.

Look for plants that fit inside the aquarium without coming out of the water. Depending on the size of your aquarium, you will have either a lot of options to choose from or a limited selection. Tall plants are not suitable for short aquariums because the part of the plant outside the water will not survive, whereas tiny plants may become lost in the scenery in a large aquarium. Moss and grasses are great in almost any aquarium, so be sure to include these in your tank. If your cage is longer than it is wide, consider planting some frilly and wide ferns as opposed to stemmed plants that continually grow.

Vary the size and location of plants to improve the scenery's aesthetic. Some plants are better to put in specific areas in the tank for the aesthetic and scenic purposes. For example, short plants should be located at the front, while tall plants should be at the back so as not to disrupt the view. Common groupings of aquatic plants include carpeting plants, foreground plants, mid-ground plants, and background plants. Carpeting plants: Carpeting plants will spread across the substrate layer and create a lush "carpet" of vegetation. Java moss, hair grass, and other mosses and grasses are easy to plant and take care of. Foreground plants: Foreground plants are placed in the front of the aquarium, and add a sense of depth and scenery to the tank. Water Wisteria, Pygmy Swords, and other short but frilly plants are great options. Mid-ground plants: Mid-ground plants are thick, tall, and fill out the natural scenery in the tank. Mid-ground plants include African Water Ferns, Java Ferns, and other plants that take up lots of space and spread out. Background plants: Background plants are placed at the back of the cage and are often the tallest and most obstructive vegetation. Amazon Swords, Anubias, and other towering and flowering plants are popular choices.

Planting and Taking Care of Live Plants

Remove your plant from its container and set it in the substrate layer. Take care not to damage the plant as you remove it from its packaging, and carefully plant it in the substrate according to the planting instructions. Different types of plants require different depths to be planted in the substrate — some common methods for different plant types include: Mosses and Grasses: Turn off the filter, and place the moss directly on top of the substrate in areas you want it to grow. Place a heavy coin, such as a half dollar or pound coin, on top of the moss to keep it down while the roots grow into the substrate over the next week. Potted plants: Remove the plant from the plot and be careful to not damage the roots poking out of the bottom of the dirt or cotton. Dig a hole in the substrate as wide as the plant, place it inside, and then blend in the sides of the plant with substrate. Ferns: Attach the fern to a rock or piece of driftwood with a fishing wire or cotton thread to keep it upright. Ferns do not need to be placed in the substrate layer, most just need something solid to hold onto for stability. Cotton thread will dissolve with time, whereas fishing wire should be cut away and removed once the fern takes hold. Plants with a stem: Push the base of the stem about 1–2 in (2.5–5.1 cm) into the substrate and it should stay upright. If not, use a fishing wire or cotton thread to keep it up until it can support itself. You can plant stemmy plants all in one area in a frilly bunch, or spread them around the back and middle areas.

Trim your plants regularly to encourage their growth and survival. Plants of all kinds can quickly become too big and take up too many resources in the tank for their own good. Use a very sharp knife to cut away dead leaves, dead stems, and trim the grass or moss in the tank every time you clean the aquarium. Moss can be re-planted in other areas of the tank, if you wish, by simply placing it onto an empty patch of substrate and weighing it down with a heavy coin until the roots take hold. Take about 2 in (5.1 cm) off of the top of a stemmed plant to encourage its growth when it gets to reach the top of the water level.

Let the tank cycle water for about 1 month before you introduce your fish. Substrate, plants, and everything else you've put into the aquarium can change the acidity, nutrient content, and overall healthiness of the tank. Allow the tank to cycle water normally through the filter, remove algae and buildup, and allow the plants to take root before you introduce fish and aquatic animals. The tank needs time to build up nutrients and beneficial bacteria in the substrate. This beneficial bacteria helps to stabilize the tank and prevents ammonia and nitrate build up. Especially with bottom feeding and burrowing aquatic animals, it is important to let your plants get to the point that they can support themselves before you introduce new creatures. Some aquatic pets will dig at the base of plants, or eat leaves and stems, so you give your plant the best chance of survival if you allow it to take root.