How to Care for a Bromeliad

Caring for a Planted Bromeliad

Attempt to identify your bromeliad. There are thousands of species of bromeliads, and different varieties grow best in different levels of sunlight, temperature, and humidity. If you purchased your bromeliad from a nursery, the employees there should be able to tell you the exact genus and which environment to put it in. A gardener, botanist, or bromeliad identification book could also help, especially if you know the region your plant is native to. Visit an online photo gallery of bromeliads to see if you can narrow yours down to a specific genus. Searching for that genus name should be enough to provide the basic care information you need. If you can get an exact species identification, search online for the name of that species to learn more specific information about temperature, soil, etc. If you can get a genus identification but not a specific species name, which is common, follow the general guidelines on this chart. If multiple boxes are checked in one category, follow whichever one matches the guidelines below, as that should work for the largest number of bromeliad species. If you can't identify your bromeliad at all, follow the advice below for the most common successful care methods. Monitor your plant closely and use the Troubleshooting Guide to alter your care if the plant appears unhealthy.

Learn which type of planting material to use. Most bromeliads suffer in ordinary soil or potting soil, since it collects too much water and rots the root system. It's better to use specific potting mixes designed for bromeliads, or to create your own to match the plant. Identify your bromeliad's needs using these simple methods: If your plant is labeled "air bromeliad", "air plant", "tillandsia", "epiphytic", or "non terrestrial", it grows on other plants instead of in soil. These plants are sold attached to a piece of wood, by themselves, or in a pot containing only dry bark or rocks. Skip to the section Caring for Air Bromeliads If your plant is a "terrestrial" variety, or if it looks similar to a pineapple, grass, or succulent, it requires a mix that can hold a little more moisture than other bromeliad varieties. The soil should still be on the fast-draining side as far as ordinary potting mixes go, so use a variety specially for bromeliads or mix 2 parts ordinary potting mix with 1 part perlite or sand. You can also use a mix designed for cacti and succulents. If your plant's leaves from a central cup or cylinder for holding water, or if the plant has no clear identifying characteristics, use a coarsely packed, well draining potting mix. Purchase one specially made for bromeliads, or mix your own with equal parts pine bark nuggets (or mulch), perlite, and soil-less professional potting mix. The end result should moisten quickly but drain well.

Look up year round temperature and humidity if planting your bromeliad outdoors. If you live in an area with 50–75% humidity and no frost, you should be able to keep your bromeliad outdoors year round. Most bromeliads originated in the tropics and are happiest in daytime temperatures between 75º and 90ºF (24–32ºC). Occasional, brief variations outside these temperatures and cooler nights shouldn't harm your plants. If you can't find your area's humidity on the weather report, follow these linked instructions to calculate it yourself. If your area's outdoor conditions fit the bill most of the year but not in winter, plant the bromeliad in a buried container. Before the frost hits, dig up the container for an easy move indoors. If you don't know the exact species and maximum size, use a bigger container than you think you need to be on the safe side. If your plant was sold with an identification tag or care guide, it may specify different temperatures that better match the specific species.

If planting indoors, use a plastic pot unless the area is unusually humid. A plastic pot will hold moisture for longer periods, which is important in heated or dry homes. If your indoor environment is typically quite humid, use a ceramic pot instead. Remember to place a high-lipped saucer beneath the pot, or something else that will catch the excess water when it drains.

Place in an area of indirect sunlight. Almost all varieties of bromeliad are tropical, and thrive in warm but shaded areas. Even if you don't know the name of your species, your plant may contain clues to give you more detailed information: If the plant has thick, gray-green leaves, it grows best in bright, indirect sunlight. Plant it somewhere it will receive light without being directly exposed to the sun's rays, such as indoors near an east-facing window or outdoors in mottled or mild shade. Thin, green leaves should be kept in low indirect sunlight. Plant this somewhere dim, such as beneath a tree that provides significant shading, or indoors near a north-facing window (south-facing if you live in the Southern Hemisphere). Full, direct sunlight should only used on a minority of desert-dwelling species, and most of these are air bromeliads, not terrestrial ones. If you're not certain of your identification, stick with indirect sunlight.

Moisten around the base of plants in soil or potting mix. Do not water excessively; bromeliads can handle dry conditions much better than soaked roots. Only water once the top two inches (5 cm) are dry, and drain any excess water. Never use a metal watering can to water bromeliads. Many varieties cannot handle the trace amounts of metal that enter the water. If planted indoors, it may be a good idea to flush salt buildups from the soil by watering the plant until the water comes through the drainage holes. Only do this if your plant is in quick-draining soil that does not stay soaked for long. Mist the bromeliad daily using a spray bottle filled with water.

Fill the tank of the plant with distilled water if it has one. Many bromeliads have a cup or cylinder in the center of their leaves, intended for catching rainwater. If one is present, keep it filled with rainwater or distilled water rather than tap water, especially if your tap water is hard. Every week, empty the tank of water and debris by gently turning the plant over the sink. Replace it with fresh water to reduce the risk of rot. If your pipes, dishes, or sink regularly get crusted with a mineral deposit, usually white, your tap water is "hard" and should not be used for this purpose. Never get water on the surface of a plant during periods of direct or high temperature sun, especially the late morning and early afternoon. The heated water can burn your plant.

Fertilize only when necessary and do so carefully. Bromeliads are slow growing plants, and cannot make use of fertilizers at the same rate many plants can. Overusing fertilizer can make extra-long, thin leaves without improving useful growth, or diminish the plant's color, so be careful and follow these steps to fertilize properly: Fertilizer should not be used on indoor plants, or during the winter months. Fertilizer works best on grass-like bromeliads or on adult bromeliads you are trying to encourage to bloom. Never apply fertilizer directly to the plant or into the central water tank between the leaves. This can burn the bromeliad. Plants with central water tanks should have their tank emptied and refilled every couple months to reduce rot, but they do lose nutrients this way. Place a small amount of slow-acting, time-release fertilizer around the base of the plant after emptying the tank.

Harvest young plants from your bromeliad once the bloom dies. Bromeliads typically only flower once in their lives, then die, but their lifespan may cover several years before this happens. Before it dies, it should produce the buds of new plants called "pups", usually within or under the base of the lowest leaves. Once the pup has had six months to grow, or the mother plant begins to die, cut them off near the base with a sharp, disinfected knife and plant one in its own pot. Disinfect the knife by rubbing the blade thoroughly with rubbing alcohol. This can also be used to remove unsightly dead flowers, or brightly colored flower-supporting structures. Try not to cut too close to the main plant.

Caring for an Air Bromeliad

Understand how air bromeliads work. If your plant is an air bromeliad, you probably purchased it attached to driftwood or another object, placed in a pot that contained pure bark or rocks instead of soil or potting mix, or by itself with no attachment at all. These plants draw moisture and nutrients from the air around them. They are especially hardy compared to other bromeliads, but you should keep an eye out to deal with problems early.

Plant in dry bark or attach to any hard object. Most air bromeliads cannot draw moisture or nutrients through the roots at all, and only need to be placed in dry bark so it has crevices to attach to and hold itself upright. Smaller varieties can even be attached to driftwood, pebbles, or other objects. Before placing on object under your bromeliad, if you suspect it has been exposed to saltwater, immerse the object in distilled water or rainwater for two weeks, changing the water frequently. Some bromeliads sold as air bromeliads may have more extensive root systems, either because they are larger and require more support, or because they can draw moisture from both air and water. Plant these in a mix of 1 part perlite and 2 parts bromeliad potting mix, and occasionally moisten around the base of the plant if the leaves look dry.

Place in bright indirect sunlight or full sun. Air bromeliads tend to originate in desert environments and can take more sunlight than other varieties, but this is not true of every species. Keep it in front of an east- or north-facing window for indirect sunlight, or move it to a west- or south-facing window for full sun and keep a close eye out for dry leaves. Most air bromeliads are small and thus make easy indoor plants, but they can be kept outside. They tend to be hardier than other varieties, but will do best in warm weather and should be brought inside before the frost hits. If you are in the Southern Hemisphere, the south-facing window will get indirect sunlight, and the north-facing one receives direct sunlight. You may also need to adjust to a different window if there are hills or a mountain slope nearby. See Troubleshooting for signs your plant has too little or too much sun exposure.

Mist the plant every few days. Air bromeliads require extra moisture from the air. Use a spray bottle to mist the surface of the plant once every few days. It may require misting daily or every other day if kept in an arid indoor environment or during a dry season. Do not water the base of the plant unless another step tells you to in specific situations. Air bromeliads do not primarily use its roots to draw up water, and standing water could cause them to rot. Use distilled or bottled water in the sprayer for the best results.

Fertilize sparingly with diluted liquid fertilizer (optional). Bromeliads grow slowly and do not typically require fertilizer. If you want to encourage blooming or rapid growth, you can attempt to fertilize it infrequently, no more than once every two weeks at the very most. Air plants can only be fertilized using liquid fertilizer, since they do not draw nutrients through their roots. Always dilute one part liquid fertilizer with one to three parts water before spraying.

Move buds to their own area once the plant's flowers begin to fade. When your bromeliad eventually flowers, which can take years and last several months, it will produce "pups", or young buds. Use a disinfected knife to cut off dead flowers or spiky flower-supporting structures when they become unattractive, and to remove the buds when they have grown for several months or the plant begins to die. Disinfect the blade with rubbing alcohol before cutting and take care not to injure the main plant body.

Troubleshooting

Move the plant to an area of more sunlight if the leaves become larger and greener. These are signs that the plant is trying to make up for insufficient sunlight. Don't move it straight to direct sunlight, since that damages most bromeliads. Move to an area of sunnier, mottled shade or nearer a window that receives indirect sunlight first. Move it again if the leaves don't correct themselves in a couple weeks.

Move the plant out of sunlight if it withers or if colors fade. Move your bromeliad to a shader area of your yard, or place it further from windows that receive direct sunlight. Make a more drastic change in sunlight conditions if the sun is burning brown holes onto the leaves. If your plant should be able to withstand more sunlight according to a label or expert, it may have been cared for improperly by the previous owners. Acclimate it to the correct conditions by periodically moving it to a slightly brighter area.

Increase the humidity if the soil won't stay moist or the leaf tips turn brown. If the leaf size and overall colors haven't changed, but you notice one of these problems, the sunlight is probably fine but the plant needs more water: Mist the bromeliad every day when it's not exposed to direct sunlight. Keep the central cup of the plant full of water if one is present. Plant other plants a short distance from your bromeliad. Each plant raises the humidity in its immediate area. Run a humidifier in the same room as your plant, or create your own non-powered humidifier by placing pebbles in a tray and filling it with water to just below the surface of the rocks.

Rehydrate dry or withered leaves of an air bromeliad. If you have an "air plant" with no soil to draw water from, you should be misting it every few days. To repair the dried out leaves immediately, immerse the air plant in water for a few minutes, then hold upside and check to make sure all the water drains out from between the leaves. Trapped water pockets can cause rot.

Change your caring methods if you notice white buildup near the base of the leaves. This is a sign of too much mineral buildup. Take these steps to remove the problem and deal with the immediate issue: Use rainwater or distilled water instead of tap water to care for your bromeliad. Pour water over the plant or into the central cup until the pot drains or the soil is good and moist. This flushes out the excess minerals, but should be done sparingly since it can cause the roots to rot. Turn small indoor plants upside down over the sink afterward to help them drain. Stop using fertilizer, or at least dilute it to half the strength you're currently using.

Treat round dots or white patches that result from pest attacks. The most common pests are scale and mealybugs, which create the described appearance. Wipe a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol over the affected area every day or two until it subsides. For widespread or persistent outbreaks, mix baby shampoo or mild dishwashing detergent with water and spray onto the plants to suffocate the insects. Rinse the plant shortly afterward to maintain the leaves' access to air. If you are forced to resort to insecticides, avoid thick or oil-based ones which can suffocate the plant. Bromeliads rely on their leaves to draw in some nutrients and water, so only use insecticides as a last resort.