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Purchasing Beads Knowledgeably
Find a reliable gemstone vendor. You can identify reliable and trustworthy gemstone vendors both in the real world and online by visiting sites that host databases of vendor reviews and certifications. If you have vendors in mind, you can look them up in these databases by visiting http://gemaddicts.com/?page_id=19 or https://www.alexa.com/siteinfo/gemselect.com.
Avoid stones with creative names. Overly descriptive terms and names are usually a sign that a stone isn’t what the seller claims. Look for simply labeled semi-precious stones when you’re shopping for gem. If you’re unsure of whether or not a stone’s name means that it’s fake, you can always consult a list of misleading gemstone names online to find out by visiting https://www.gemsociety.org/article/list-false-misleading-gemstone-names/. Stones with names like Oriental emerald, American ruby, or Australian jade could be a green sapphire, a garnet, or treated quartz respectively. If they’re real, they’ll just be called emeralds, rubies, or jade.
Inspect the stone’s backing for signs of enhancement. Fake gemstones are sometimes mounted on top of foil to give the stone added luster or to change its color. Real gemstones do not need their luster to be exaggerated, and are typically mounted on a solid black setting. If you are purchasing a gemstone online and only have photographs to consult, a fake gemstone will usually be unusually brilliant in color and have perfect lines running through it.
Use a jeweler’s loupe to search for inclusions and blemishes. Inclusions (materials trapped inside the stones as they form) or blemishes are a sign that a gemstone is real. It doesn't mean there's anything wrong. It just means that as the stone was growing, it got a little crack for natural reasons. If you don’t see any inclusions or blemishes in the stone using a jeweler’s loupe (a special magnifying lens), it’s a good indication that the stone is glass or synthetic. You should also look for scratches on the gemstone. Most gemstones are hard and durable, so scratches or other signs of external damage indicate that the stone isn’t real. Jeweler’s loupes come with either a single lens or with 3 lenses. A single lens loupe is generally cheaper but of lower quality. Most professional jewelers use a loupe with a 10x magnification. Keep the focal length (distance between the loupe and gem) in mind. A longer focal length means a weaker magnification, and vice versa.
Testing the Beads at Home
Figure out what type of stone the bead is meant to be. You can ask the original seller what type of stone the bead is meant to be. If the seller is unavailable, you can also use a gemstone identification guide as a reference by visiting http://www.minerals.net/, which will give you an approximate idea of the visual characteristics of each gemstone. You should focus in particular on the hue (color), tone (how dark or light the color is), and saturation (the intensity of the color). The hue will help you identify the general type of stone, while the tone and saturation will help you pinpoint the specific variation of that stone you possess. A high value emerald, for example, will be blueish green or pure green, with a light tone and vivid saturation (it should be almost transparent). Using a light source like a desk lamp can make your inspection of the stone easier.
Rub the stone against your teeth. Place the stone against your front teeth and rub it back and forth. Real stones have tiny imperfections on their surface, while manufactured glass will not. So, glass will feel smooth, while a real stone will feel gritty.
Find other tests designed for the specific type of stone you think you have. Some gemstones require different or more involved tests than the teeth test to determine whether they are real or fake. Such tests can be found with a simple Google search. To test amber, see if it floats in water. Real amber will float, fakes will sink. To test jet, rub it with sandpaper. If it is fake, it will produce brown dust. If it’s real, it won’t produce any dust. You can also test jet by inserting a hot needle into the stone. A fake stone will bubble and produce an acrid smell, a real stone won’t be affected. To test if jade is fake, hold it up to a light source to search for inclusions. Fake jade will be flawless. You can also lightly strike the jade with glass or metal. If it’s real, the jade will make a tinkling sound.
Consulting a Jeweler
Find a reputable jeweler in your area. Ask family and friends for recommendations, search online, and use social media to find reviews of local jewelers. It’s also a good idea to check up on jewelers with the Better Business Bureau by visiting https://www.bbb.org/.
Call ahead to make sure the jeweler is willing and able to test your stone. It’s always a good idea to call ahead. Some jewelers may charge a fee to test your stone or be more knowledgeable about some stones than others. Find out if they are knowledgeable about your type of stone by asking how much experience they have with it.
Ask about the jewelers’ certifications. Jewelers receive certifications from the American Gem Society and the Gemological Institute of America. Calling ahead is also a good opportunity to find out about the jewelers’ certifications. You can use the American Gem Society’s database to find a certified jeweler by visiting www.americangemsociety.org/page/findajeweler. You can also use the Gemological Institute of America’s database to find a certified jeweler by visiting https://www.gia.edu/retailer-lookup.
Bring the stone in to the jeweler for testing. Jeweler’s tend to be less busy on Monday evenings, so it’s a good idea to visit then. Once you get there, ask to see the graduate gemologist to ensure the jeweler that inspects your stone has the highest possible credentials. Jewelers with the highest possible credentials should be able to test your stone on the spot. Lesser qualified jewelers may need to send your stone away for testing.
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