Determining the Shape of Your Eyebrows
Decide where the inner edge of your eyebrow should be. First, you need a white facial pencil so you can mark it. You will also need a straight edge to help you determine where your eyebrow should begin. Use the straight edge to create a visual line vertically from the inside point of your nostril up to your eyebrow. Make a mark on the inside edge. If you prefer, you can use the outside edge of your nostril. However, doing so can make your nose look bigger. Don't forget to do the other side.
Decide where your eyebrows end. Once again, you'll need to use a straight edge and a pencil. The end point of your eyebrows is the outer edge, the point nearest your ears rather than your nose. To create this boundary, make a visual line with the straight edge from the outside point of your nostril. It should run to the outside corner of your eye up through your eyebrow. Mark it with a pencil, and then do the same on the other eyebrow.
Create an arch. An arch can be a curve or more of an angle. Either way, it's where your eyebrow reaches upward near the middle. Once again, you'll need to use your straight edge to make a visual line that will help you determine where your arch should be. The visual line should run from the outer point of your nostril. It should also line up with the middle of your pupil. Once the line reaches your eyebrow, that's the place you mark for arch. Draw one on the other side, too.
Make straight lines. Now you want to make the boundaries of your eyebrow, going from point to point. Use the straight edge to create straight lines, following the natural lines of your eyebrow. In other words, go up towards the arch on the bottom from the inside, then down from the arch towards the outside. Do the same on the top, keeping the lines mostly straight until you reach the arch. If you don't want to use straight lines, you can just follow the curve of your eyebrow, making them as thin or as thick as you want, being sure you don't get them too thin, as they might not show up.
Decide how you want your arch shape. If you want your arch shape very angled, don't curve as you come into the arch. Simply keep the lines straight. If you prefer the arch more curved, create a curve as you come into the arch.
Waxing and Plucking Your Eyebrows
Comb out your eyebrows. You can use a small comb or a special spoolie brush to comb out your eyebrows. Brush them upwards towards your forehead and slightly outwards in the direction the hair is going. The point of this exercise is it make sure all the hairs are aligned for trimming and waxing. If you don't know what a spoolie brush is, ask at your local drugstore. It's just a small brush like you see in mascara, except you can buy it by itself.
Cut your eyebrows. You'll need a small pair of scissors for this process. As you brush your eyebrow hairs upwards, look to see if any of them are longer then the lines you've made. Trim off the tops of any hairs that are too long, using your comb or brush to guide you. If your eyebrow hair is exceptionally long, such as it's hanging over the edges of the spoolie brush, you can trim hairs down. Make sure you're not trimming too short, though, if you want to wax. Your hairs need to be a little longer to be pulled up by the wax, with about 3 weeks of growth. Wipe off any hairs you trim.
Don't apply skin products. Before waxing, you want to avoid certain products, as it can increase the sensitivity of your skin. If you use them, waxing could hurt more. You want to skip any exfoliating or astringent product or anything with retinol in it.
Wax your eyebrows. If you want, you can wax along the lines you've created. To wax, all you need are small wax strips designed for eyebrows. These strips only need the warmth from your hands. They do not need to be heated otherwise. To begin, pull out a wax strip and cut it to size. Many times, you can cut strips in half, lengthwise. Only use a long enough strip to do half of your eyebrow at once. Use your fingers to warm up the strip by rubbing it. Take the paper backing off, and put the strip along the shape you've made on your eyebrow. Use your fingers to make sure the strip is applied securely. Once it's on, rip it off in one swift motion to remove hairs.
Pluck eyebrows. Another option for shaping your brows is to pluck them. You'll also need to pluck after waxing to catch any stray hairs. Either way, you need to find the hairs outside the line and use tweezers to pluck them out. Look for the direction the hair is growing, and pluck in the same direction. Make it easier to pluck by doing it after applying warm water to your face with a washcloth or after you shower. The best way to pluck is to get as near to the skin as you can because it's easier to grab a hair from the base. You don't want to pinch the skin, though. If you're not sure what the ideal brow shape is for you, try going to a professional first and then maintaining the shape with tweezers.
Go back and forth between eyebrows. When waxing or plucking, it helps to move back and forth between your eyebrows. Doing so helps you keep them even, as you are able to shape them as you go. In addition, you might overpluck if you stay on one eyebrow. Moving back and forth can help you see the thickness.
Pluck or wax every few weeks. Some people like to pluck every day, but that can mean you end up with eyebrows that are too thin. You need to let some hairs grow in before you can see whether you need to pluck them or not. If you pluck too often, you'll find you've plucked out hairs that you need to fill in your eyebrow line. You may not want bushy eyebrows, but you don't want nonexistent ones, either.
Shaping Brows for Men
Pluck instead of wax. While waxing creates cleaner lines, it can create too clean a line on a man. Some stylists suggest men should pluck rather than wax because a bushier, more natural shape looks better on men. The straight lines can look unnatural on a man, like you've drawn it on instead of waxing your natural brow. Start by plucking underneath your brow. That's often the place you'll need to pluck first. You may not need to pluck the top of your brow at all. Mostly, you just want to clean up stray hairs and slightly define the arch.
Trim hair. Once you've plucked, it's time to trim your eyebrows. Trimming on the top helps create a cleaner line without making it too blocky, which is why plucking is better than waxing for men. Start by brushing your eyebrow hair upward and outward with a spoolie brush or small comb. A spoolie brush is a mascara brush, but you can buy separate ones at drugstores. As you trim, try to cut hairs along the top so they are even, creating a cleaner finish. You can use the brush or comb to help you trim. Use a small pair of scissors for trimming.
Think about your age. On younger men, a unibrow can be acceptable, even sexy. However, most stylist recommend getting rid of the unibrow as you age because it will help you look younger and more polished. To remove the middle part of a unibrow, you can use wax strips. Simply buy wax strips meant for eyebrows. They warm up in your hands. Line up the inside point of your eyebrow with the inside point of your nostrils. Place the strip over the part you want to remove. Use your fingers to rub it down, then remove it quickly.
Use a brow gel. If you just want to add shape to your brows, consider a brow gel. You can use a pomade, but that will add color, too. You can find gels that are clear made specifically for your eyebrows, which you can use to give your eyebrows definition and shape. Most gels come with a brush, much like mascara. However, you'll need to add a little of the product to it first before applying. Use the brush and gel to brush your eyebrows upwards in the direction the hair grows. Leave it in to dry.
Using the Best Tools and Products
Try a hair conditioner. Sometimes, your eyebrows can become coarse and unmanageable, just like your hair. Using a conditioner on them can make them softer and easier to work with. Start by putting warm water on a washcloth and placing it over your eyebrows. Leave it there for a minute or two, making your eyebrows damp and warm. If you have a leave-in conditioner, simply apply a small amount to each eyebrow, making sure to rub it in well so it doesn't get in your eyes. If you want to use a wash-out conditioner, pick one that's fairly thick. Apply enough to cover each eyebrow, and leave it on there for about 5 minutes. Try not to look up and get it on your eyelashes while it's in. Use a washcloth to wipe it off at the end, then wash your eyebrows more thoroughly. You can also do this step in the shower, but be careful about getting it in your eyes. You can buy conditioners specifically for eyebrows, though you'll pay more for them. Some of these products promise to help regrow hair.
Use a pencil for more definition. Eyebrow pencils come in a variety of colors, and you can use them to shape and fill in your brows. Pick a color that matches your eyebrow hair or is slightly darker. For heavy definition, use the pencil to line the underside of your eyebrow along the hairline. To fill in your brow, use the pencil to make small strokes across your eyebrows, following the direction of the hair. When you're done, comb your brows with a spoolie brush to even it out a little.
Look at powders. Powders can also help fill in your eyebrows. You pick a powder that matches your eyebrow color, though you'll want a slightly darker color and a slightly lighter color. It will likely come with wax to apply before the powder and maybe concealer to clean up the shape. Start by brushing your brows into shape with a spoolie brush. Use your finger to pull out a little wax. Run your finger over your brow, going with the direction of the hair. Start with a slightly darker color at the arch. Use a small angled brush. Use small strokes to brush the powder in, moving towards the tip and going in the direction of the hair. With a lighter shade, start at the inside of the brow, moving toward the arch. Blend it in as you get to the arch. You can set the powder by running a brow gel over it, gently.
Consider a pomade. Pomades can provide shape and color to your eyebrows, depending on the product. Once you've brushed your brows, you can use the pomade to create a more finished look for your brows. When picking one out, choose one that matches your eyebrow hair color. Use an angled brush with a defined line to apply pomade along the bottom of the brow line along the hair line. Don't start all the way on the inside of the brow. Come a little bit in. Pull the line all the way out to the end, making it as pointed as you want it. If you want some product on the inner part of your eyebrow, choose a product that fills in lighter, and still don't go all the way to the inside. If you use a lighter color, make sure to blend it into the darker color. Once you have a small line, use the brush to lightly pull it up into the hair. You can also add a line to the top for more definition, especially if you have bushier eyebrows.
Think about brow mascara. Another option is brow mascara. Brow mascaras add body and build to your eyebrows, if you prefer yours to be bushier. They also add color. Brow mascaras come in a tube like eyelash mascara. To apply with a ball brush that comes in some of these mascaras, start by working from the outer edge in. That is, brush from the outer corner to the inner corner, against the grain. Then go back the other way. Repeat if you want them even bushier.
Consider a mattifying gel. A mattifying gel is meant to take the shine off. When you get your hair removed, you may have shiny skin underneath. Applying this type of gel can work to take care of that shine, so it doesn't stand out against the rest of your skin. Just apply a small amount to the skin where you've had hair removed near your eyebrows. For instance, you may want to put some between your eyebrows.
Invest in tweezers. If you're tweezers have been hiding in the bottom of a makeup bag for years, it's time to get a new pair. Old pairs aren't as sharp, meaning you will need to pluck hairs more than once. Pick a pair that has a slanted edge, coming down to a point. These tweezers make it easier to grab hairs than a strictly pointed pair. When looking at tweezers, pick a stainless steel pair. This metal isn't irritating for most people. It's also easy to clean and long-lasting.
Make old tweezers new again. If you don't have the money to invest in a new pair of tweezers, you can sharpen an old pair. The easiest way to do it is to rub a nail file along the edge you pluck with, which will help create a better grip. You can also use sand instead, rubbing it along the edge. Clean your tweezers every time you use them with a bit of rubbing alcohol.
Go to the light. When plucking, you need a good light to see by. If you can, invest in a good vanity light to make sure you can see. You can also do fairly well in a brightly lit bathroom, if you don't want to use a vanity light. If you have neither of these options, move to natural light. You can move over to the window to see better. A magnified mirror can also help you see better.
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