Buffing and Recoating
Check your floor to make sure it doesn’t have a wax finish. If your floor has been finished with wax, rather than oil or lacquer, buffing and recoating won’t work because the finish may end up leaving ugly bubbles. Apply paint thinner or mineral spirits to a small, inconspicuous spot that’s been cleaned. Wipe a white rag over the spot; if it turns brown or yellow, the finish may be wax. If your floor does have a wax finish, you may be able rewax and polish the floors using a buffing machine with a steel wool pad.
Clear the room completely and make any necessary repairs to the floor. If any floorboard nails are protruding, you should pound them in to just below the surface with a hammer and point. Fill the resulting hole with wood putty, allow a few hours for it to dry, then sand it lightly with the grain until it’s flush with the floor.
Clean the floor thoroughly and allow it to dry. Sweep, vacuum, and mop with a commercial hardwood floor cleaner that will clean away any contaminants without dissolving the existing finish. Let your floor dry.
Abrade the floor lightly, by hand or with a buffing machine. This is the part of refinishing-the-floor-without-sanding that requires sanding...but just a little. You won’t be sanding the floor to bare wood as you would for a full refinishing. You’ll just be lightly abrading or scuffing the surface to remove imperfections in the existing finish and prepare it so that the new coat bonds well. You can rent buffing machines at a hardware store or home center, but the job can also be done by hand, if you prefer. Use 120-180-grit sandpaper to lightly buff or sand the floor. You don’t need to be too thorough or apply too much pressure; just work the finish until a powder forms. Prepare the perimeter sanding by hand, then use the buffer, moving from side-to-side along the grain of the floor.
Vacuum the floor very thoroughly. Do not sweep, as that will only push the dust into the cracks between the floorboards. Use the machine’s soft-bristle attachment to thoroughly suck up the dust created by scuffing. Go over your floor with a tack cloth to make sure that it's super clean.
Apply the oil or lacquer finish. Cover your shoes with booties and your nose and mouth with a respirator to avoid breathing in noxious vapors. You’ll use a brush along the edges and a long-handled roller for the center of the floor. Be sure you know whether your floor has an oil- or lacquer-based finish. If your floor was previously lacquered and you apply an oil finish, for example, the incompatibility of the finishes may lead to problems like delamination or discoloration. Oiled floors tend to wear faster in heavily-trafficked ares and are more easily stained than lacquered floors. They also tend to be darker, duller, and more “orangey” that lacquered floors.
Wait at least three hours before applying a second coat. But be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions on drying time. The finish may dry quickly for walking with stocking feet, but wait a few days or a week before moving furniture back, and be sure not to slide it across the floor when you do.
Using a Store-Bought Kit
Determine if using a “chemical etching” kit is the best method. Use this method if your hardwood floor is worn and scratched but not so damaged that it needs sanding before refinishing. Instead of buffing the floor to prepare it for a new finish, with this method you’ll apply a chemical solution to do that job. This method won’t work with wax-finished floors. If you don’t know if you have a wax-finished floor, you may check it by applying paint thinner or mineral spirits to a small, inconspicuous spot that’s been cleaned. Wipe a white rag over the spot; if it turns brown or yellow, the finish may be wax.
Buy a refinishing kit. Refinishing kits may cost around $100USD, and are available at large home centers and hardware stores. You may shop around online to find the one that’s right for you. You may decide to use the buffing method instead if chemical etching looks to be too expensive or troublesome.
Gather the tools and materials required by your kit. You’ll need a bucket, paint tray, paint brush, sponge mop, shoe covers, a shop vacuum, abrasive pads, painter’s tape, and whatever other materials the kit requires.
Clear the room and thoroughly clean the floor. You’ll also want to make the room as dust-free as possible by turning off the HVAC prior to coating, because any dust in the air may land on the wet finish and create “whiskers” on the floor. You may also need to close the curtains because direct sunlight may cause the finish to dry too quickly in spots.
Apply the liquid etcher to roughen the floor surface for the finish. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for applying the etcher. You’ll have to scrub it firmly into the grain with the abrasive pad supplied in the kit, which may be attached to a mop handle. Let the floor dry for about 30 minutes.
Mop the floor. Use a solution of 2 tablespoons (30 mL) of dishwashing liquid in 1 gallon (3.8 L) of warm water. This will remove any remaining residue and help to neutralize the chemical etcher.
Touch up any scratches in the wood when the floor drys. Use an artist’s brush to apply a matching stain to the scratch, blotting out the excess with a rag. Dry it with a hair dryer for about a minute, and then seal it with the finish provided in the kit.
Apply the finish using the kit’s applicator pad. Application specifications will vary depending on the kit, so follow the manufacturer’s specific instructions precisely. You may need an assistant to help with application, because the finish may become gummy if left to stand for more than 10 minutes. Your helper can smooth out any drips or bubbles. Most kits will contain enough for two coats on over 225 square feet (20.9 m). A second coat may be a good idea to further hide any scratches.
Allow time to dry. The finish should be ready for stocking feet after about 8 hours and furniture after a day or two. You may want to wait 2 weeks before putting down a rug, though.
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