- Select a 10-volume developer to lift your hair by 1 shade. Volume 10 developer is the gentlest option and is best for minor hair color changes like brown to black.
- Choose a 20-volume developer to lift hair by 2 shades and help cover greys.
- Go for a 30-volume developer to lift your hair 3-4 shades. Only use volume 30 hair developer on thick or coarse hair, as it's too harsh for fine hair types.
- Avoid using a 40-volume developer, which can damage your hair.
Selecting the Right Developer Volume
Use volume 10 developer to lift your color a single level. Hair developer uses various percentages of hydrogen peroxide to lift the hair’s cuticle layer and deposit color—the higher the peroxide percentage is, the more it lifts and strips the hair. Volume 10 is the weakest developer level, containing only 3% hydrogen peroxide. Volume 10 is a great option if you’re hoping to go just a bit darker than your current hair color and don’t need to lift or remove any of your existing hair color. Volume 10 developer is recommended for use on thin or fine hair, as it’s not very strong and won’t overly strip your delicate strands. Volume 10 developer is a good choice to use in conjunction with a toner, as it will balance the toner out. Volume 10 is perfect if you're trying to make a slight hair color change—for instance, if your hair is dark brown, and you want to dye it black. Each increment of 10 represents another level of color that can be lifted. For example, a volume 10 developer will lift your hair by 1 shade, a 20-volume will lift it by 2 shades, and a 30-volume will lift it by 3-4 shades.
Choose volume 20 developer to change your hair color by 1 to 2 shades. Volume 20 is the most popular developer level, as it contains 6% hydrogen peroxide, which is a moderate amount. This option is also good if you want to cover grey hairs. Volume 20 is good for thick hair, as it will be strong enough to open your hair cuticles. Volume 20 is the best for use on gray hairs. Because grey hair has no pigment, it needs minimal lifting to deposit pigment into the cuticle shaft—any developer over volume 20 will damage grey hair.
Opt for a volume 30 developer to change your color by 3 to 4 shades. Volume 30 contains 9% hydrogen peroxide and is ideal for altering your hair by several shades. Volume 30 developer is very strong, so only use it on thick or coarse hair, as it can damage thin or fine hair. Many store-bought hair dye and developer packets contain volume 20 or volume 30 developer. For example, a volume 30 developer might be a good choice if you're a sandy blonde hoping to achieve a sunny golden blonde.
Avoid using volume 40 developer so you don't damage your hair. Volume 40 is not recommended for non-professional use, as it’s intended for maximum lightening and can dry out your hair if it’s not applied correctly. This developer level is often only used for major hair color changes. Don't use it at home, as it can easily damage your hair. If you believe you require a volume 40 developer to dye your hair properly, go to your local salon and allow a professional to color your hair for you.
Getting the Dye and Developer
Purchase more developer and hair color than you think you may need. Running out of developer and hair color halfway into the dyeing process can cause your hair to come out unevenly or improperly. Avoid an unfortunate hair fiasco by getting an extra box of developer and hair color so you have it on hand. A good rule of thumb is to get at least 2 to 3 boxes of hair color and developer for long hair (past your shoulders) and 1 to 2 boxes of hair color and developer for short hair (above your shoulders).
Buy the developer separately if you bought only a tube of dye. Purchase a developer to use with your hair dye, as a developer is required to open the hair cuticle and helps the hair dye pigment to stick. Purchasing developer separately allows you to choose the specific volume you need to lift your hair to your desired level.
Look for a hair dye and developer kit to make things easy. Developer is often sold with hair dye in a package, so you don't have to worry about choosing the right volume. Getting the dye and developer together in a kit is ideal because the developer will be the right strength for the color on the package. If you bought boxed dye with the developer included, buying a separate developer is not a good idea, as it may cause damage to your hair or ruin the color. Use the developer in the box for the best results. Keep in mind that the hair color on the box will likely look different on you. Generally, hair dyes tend to turn out anywhere from 1-2 shades darker or lighter than the image on the box.
Applying the Developer and Hair Dye
Wear gloves and a hairdresser's cape. Wear latex or nitrile gloves during the mixing and application process to protect your hands from getting stained by the dye. Don't forget to put on a hairdresser’s cape or even a garbage bag with holes cut out for your head and arms to avoid getting dye or developer on your clothes. To protect your bathroom or kitchen counters, spread newspaper around the sink.
Follow the developer-to-dye ratio on the package. Most developer-to-dye ratios are 1 part hair color to 2 parts developer. Check the ratio on the hair dye package to be sure you are using the recommended amount. If you need clarification on the ratio, don't guess, as your hair color may not come out as desired. Ask a professional hair stylist or visit a salon and allow them to dye your hair for you.
Mix the developer and the dye. Combine the recommended amounts of developer and hair dye together in a plastic bowl, mixing with a plastic spoon. Make sure the dye and developer are well combined. Then, apply the mixture to your hair as desired. If you want to dye all of your hair, apply the dye to your entire head, starting at the ends and working up toward the roots of your hair. If you want to highlight or lowlight your hair, section your hair and apply the dye to specific sections only. Use foil strips to wrap each section and prevent the dye from getting on the surrounding strands.
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